Walk-In Shower Series – Part 3: Shower Doors & Enclosures
Explained

Welcome to Part 3 of our Walk-In Shower Series! So far, we’ve laid the groundwork with shower pans and gone vertical with wall systems. Now, we’re capping off the core structure with something that’s both functional and focal: the shower door and enclosure.

The shower door and enclosure are more than just pretty glass. They impact how your shower functions, how easy it is to clean, how the space feels, and even how your bathroom handles moisture. Tthis guide will walk you through everything you need to know—in plain English—about shower doors.

Framed vs. Frameless: What’s the Difference, Really?

Let’s start with the classic debate: framed vs. frameless.

Framed shower doors are the traditional route. They’ve got a metal frame around all the edges and they’re usually built with slightly thinner glass, around 3/16" to 1/4". They’re budget-friendly, structurally forgiving, and great at keeping water inside the stall. But they can look bulky, and the metal tracks along the bottom can possibly collect gunk over time if you’re not vigilant with cleaning.

Frameless doors, on the other hand, are sleek and modern. They use thicker glass—typically 3/8" or even 1/2"—and rely on precision hardware like clamps and hinges to stay in place. There’s no bulky frame around the edge, which makes them easier to clean and gives your bathroom an open, airy feel. But they do require perfectly plumb walls, strong mounting points, and more careful installation—especially in older homes where walls and floor are not always level.

Total Bath's take: if you want something fast, functional, and cost-effective, framed gets the job done. If you’re going for elegance, openness, and wow-factor, frameless is hard to beat.

How These Doors Are Installed (It’s Not Just a Snap-In)

Installing a shower door is more technical than it looks. For a framed system, the metal frame is mounted directly onto your finished wall surface—whether that’s tile, acrylic, or solid surface panels. We drill into the wall substrate, using studs or heavy-duty anchors, and seal every fastener with waterproof silicone. The glass then slides or swings inside that metal framework.

Frameless installs are a bit more surgical. The glass is heavy, and there’s no frame holding it together. That means the hinges and brackets must be mounted into blocking—solid wood behind your wall panels. We make sure blocking is added during the earlier stages of your remodel, especially if you’re doing tile or large wall panels. Once the glass is up, everything has to be precisely aligned, or you’ll end up with gaps, rubbing doors, or water leaks.

It’s not a DIY-friendly task, especially in older homes where walls are rarely plumb and corners are never quite square. That’s why we laser-measure every door opening and custom-cut glass when needed—so everything fits like a glove.

What Kind of Door Should You Choose?

That depends on your bathroom layout and how much room you have to work with.

In tight spaces, sliding doors—also called bypass doors—are a smart option. The panels glide past each other on a top and bottom track, so you don’t need any floor clearance. They’re common in tub-to-shower conversions and standard alcove showers.

If you’ve got room to swing, hinged doors (or pivot doors) offer a more open feel. These swing outward, or sometimes both in and out, and they often pair with a fixed panel on one or both sides. You’ll need clearance in front of the shower, but you’ll gain a clean, unobstructed entry.

In corner showers or smaller bathrooms, neo-angle enclosures are a great fit. These create a center-entry point with angled glass panels that maximize usable floor space. But keep in mind—any time you introduce angles, you’re looking at custom-cut glass and a more advanced install. Still, when done right, they’re absolutely stunning.

Let’s Talk Glass: Thickness, Clarity, and Coatings

All modern shower doors are made from tempered safety glass, which means if they ever break, they shatter into tiny pebble-like pieces—not jagged shards.

For framed doors, the glass is usually thinner since the metal frame carries the structural load. Frameless doors need thicker glass—at least 3/8"—to hold up on their own. Heavier glass not only looks more solid, it also feels smoother when you open and close it.

Want to get fancy? There are also different types of glass finishes to choose from:

• Clear glass makes your bathroom look more open- great for small bathrooms
• Frosted or rain glass adds privacy and hides water spots
• Low-iron glass eliminates that green tint you sometimes see in clear glass
• And for easy cleaning, some glass can be treated with coatings like ShowerGuard or EnduroShield, which repel soap scum and hard water buildup

Total Bath's take: If you have well water, or you’re just not into squeegeeing your glass after every shower, those coatings are absolutely worth it.

Maintenance & Long-Term Performance

Framed doors are easy to live with, but over time, the tracks can get dirty and the seals may need replacing eventually. Still, they’re predictable and durable with minimal upkeep.

Frameless doors are more open and easier to clean, but they’re less forgiving if something shifts. Hinges need to stay tight, seals should be checked occasionally, and if you skip the squeegee, you may see spots over time. That said, with proper install and care, frameless systems can last 15–20 years or more.

Total Bath's take: If you ever need to replace parts, we’ve got you covered. Whether it’s a gasket, hinge, or track, we stock the common repair components for the brands we install, so you won’t be stuck waiting weeks for something as simple as a new sweep.

Planning for Accessibility?

If mobility or aging-in-place is part of your plan, door choice becomes even more critical. You’ll want:

• A wider, low-threshold entry
• Possibly no door at all (open-entry showers are very popular right now)
• Grab bars or seats mounted in the right location
• Non-slip shower floors paired with easy-to-grip hardware

Total Bath Systems designs ADA-compliant shower solutions throughout Connecticut, and we’ll walk you through everything—from clearance space to grab bar reinforcement.

Final Thoughts: It’s All in the Fit

A shower door or enclosure might not seem like the most technical part of your remodel, but once you realize how many ways it can go wrong, you’ll be glad you’ve got pros on the job. From framing and wall prep to glass measurements and hinge placement, every decision impacts how your shower performs—not just today, but 10 years from now.

At Total Bath Systems, we do more than install glass—we engineer the whole system so that it’s safe, stylish, and built to last.

🔜 Up Next: Part 4 – Fixtures, Controls & Water Delivery Systems

Coming soon in Part 4, we’ll explore the working heart of your shower—showerheads, valves, diverters, sprayers, and digital control systems. If you’ve ever wondered what the difference is between a pressure-balanced valve and a thermostatic one, or how to run multiple fixtures off one line, we’ll break it down clearly and simply.

📞 Ready to talk shower enclosures or schedule your design consultation?

Book your free appointment with Total Bath Systems and let’s find the perfect solution for your layout, lifestyle, and budget.